Sunday, May 9, 2010

The Skellig Islands

Gannets over Little Skellig

I added another one of Ireland’s islands to my list this week. The Skellig Islands are two precipitous sea stacks composed of old red sandstone, lying 14km off the Kerry coast. They stand out on the horizon like two massive pyramids rising out of the Atlantic ocean. These remote islands are not only physically steep, with Great Skellig rising to 218m and the Little Skellig reaching 134m, they are also steeped in mystery.

Little Skellig with Great Skellig in the distance

On the Great Skellig are the remains of a 6th Century monastic settlement. Of course 6th Century monastic remains are as common as I don’t know what around these parts, but this one is different. I think the pictures describe the scene better than words but really you have to see it to believe it. Why monks would want to live on top of such a tortuously steep remote island is mystifying. I suppose it shows the extreme devotion these men had for their beliefs.

Monastic Settlement

I had hoped to get some pictures of the puffins (1,000 breeding pairs) but as luck would have it they were either out at sea or in their burrows hatching. Hundreds of burrows but only an odd glimpse of a puffin. The puffins return in the evening but the boat trips only give you three hours on the island from 11am to 2pm. In a few weeks time, when the young are bigger, the parents return more frequently, so I might make a return visit in June. The island is also home to over 2,000 pairs of manx shearwater and possibly 10,000 storm petrels. These birds are rarely seen on the island during daylight hours. The remains of quite a few storm petrels were scattered about the enclosures. Interestingly, the petrels nest in the monastic walls and beehive huts. Kittiwake, common guillemot, razorbill and fulmar also nest in significant numbers. However, due to the awkward terrain, getting close enough to get good pictures is near impossible. Islands such as the Great Saltee are much more hospitable for the photographer. Thrift, sea campion and sea spurrey were in full bloom. I also saw quite a few rabbits – I assume the monks brought them with them for food and they have managed to survive ever since.

Thrift

Little Skellig is no less impressive – it is a massive gannet city, with an estimated 26,000 breeding pairs. You have to see (and hear) it to believe it, thousands of these huge, elegant birds wheeling around the sky. Landing on the island is almost impossible, only in flat calm conditions. The whole vista is just awesome, like something out of a David Attenborough documentary. The mystery of nature!


Thrift

Sea Campion

Little Skellig in the distance

Little Skellig

Little Skellig





Cut Stone Stairway

Beehive Huts

6 comments:

  1. Great set of photos Kevin. The first one with the Gannets is a stunning composition.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wow, some wonderful vistas there. Whets the appetite for some summer island-hopping. I'm hoping to get to Skomer this summer for Puffins, etc.; probably in June, which I've found is best for them.
    Your shots remind me of some of the islands in the Firth of Forth, where I went a few years ago. I really must get to Ireland sometime, and I've no excuse now the Swansea-Cork ferry is back on!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Lovely photos and what a fascinating place! The sea is so blue. As you imply, it does look a very inhospitable place for the monks to have lived.

    Since a child I have always wanted to see Puffins but so far have never had the opportunity.

    ReplyDelete
  4. What a wonderful and fascinating place. Those beehive huts are amazing architecture but I wouldn't like to live in one! I wonder how long it took to build one.

    ReplyDelete
  5. This looks such a beautiful place. I have seen it on TV before. Thanks for your kind comment on my blog. I have added you to my list of blogs to follow at I was thinking I might like to come to Ireland for a wildlife holiday, perhaps in 2011. You macro pictures are excellent.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thanks everyone - it is one of those places that you must visit!

    ReplyDelete